Ben Riccardi has been carving a reputation for very good New York State Pet Nats and lo-fi wines, and each vintage seems to get better. The 2023 white fizz is made entirely from hybrid variety, Cayuga, and offers a delicate-yet-raw perfume of grapefruit rind, white peach, honeysuckle and hay. The fizz is vigorous, and while it doesn't last long, it's replaced by a pithy, lemony acidity that keeps things bouncy and mouth-watering. Walks a confident line between “clean” and wild. —